Chinese Dishes Stacked in Laos – Part 2

 

Chinese Dishes Stacked in Laos – Part 1

 

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Early Beauty

By the end of the 1700’s, Laos was divided into three kingdoms –

Luang Prabang

Vientiane

Champasak

Wat Si Saket was built in 1818 by King Anouvong who was then king of Vientiane. He was also the last monarch of the kingdom. It’s a beautiful, elegant temple surrounded all the way around by an opened cloistered wall that houses over 2,000 statues of Buddha.

The world is fortunate that when the Siamese attacked and ransacked Vientiane in 1827, the army used the temple compound as their headquarters and lodging area. Unlike the rest of the city, this temple was spared. They took the Emerald Buddha from this temple. It was moved it to Wat Phra Kaew, now the most revered Royal Temple and Grand Palace compound in Bangkok.

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I walked around with my Thai tourist engineering mate. We talked over various architectural temple technics.

Noticing the slightly angled pillars that surround the terrace around the wiharn, once again I thought about the Greeks – the slightly angled pillars that surround the Parthenon in Athens. Not meant to be a noticed element in architectural structure, it ennobles the visual aesthetics when looked at. If these pillars were, say, at a complete right angle straight up, it would cause the building to look heavier – this elevates the visual soaring.

A lesson learned early by ancient builders.

 

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Interviews All Around

As we exited the compound a surprising thing happened.

Several students and a young monk approached. Shyly, one of the students asked me where I was from. When I told them I was American and started to speak Thai, smiles took over everywhere. Then one of the students asked, in English, if they could interview and videotape me for their class test.

Who would say No?

The students name was Ting. He ran through usual questions about where I was from, why I was in Laos, if I liked Laotian people, food. When it was over several of them stood around and we all talked about school, the future.

Then this black guy exited the temple compound. A really handsome man. Knowing how skittish Asians can become when confronted with blacks, I just had to jump in. As he passed us I turned and asked him if he spoke English. He said Yes, of course. He told me he was from Paris.

I then asked the Laotian students if they wanted to interview a man from France. They agreed. Some chatting went on amongst them and it was decided – the monk would interview him.

It became the sweetest interview.

Max came from Paris but was born in West Africa. His family moved to France when he was ten. I asked him to speak with the Laotian students because, if there is one thing most Asians feel odd relating to, it’s black people.

They later told me that it was the first time they ever spoke to or touched a black man.

By the time everyone was finished we were fast friends. An odd pack of dogs in age, race and nations.

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A Nap

Still tired from my night-trip, I said my goodbyes to everyone and walked back to the Central Vienna Hotel.

As I walked into the CVH there was a small group gathered at the front desk. S—, B—- and his brother with his wife and baby, another desk clerk. I said Hello. Then B—- told me that S—had just lost his job as the night desk clerk. When I asked them why, they all glanced nervously about at the other four people sitting and and standing at the back of the second lobby.

Then, quietly, one of them told me that the group in the back were the Chinese hotel owners. They had decided that business had slowed and had faulted some of the employees for it. They fired S—. B—- would probably be the next to go. They all looked hurt by it but I could tell they were somewhat afraid to say anything outright against the situation.

Laos is a poor country. Other than rural agriculture, work is hard to find and keep, especially in the cities.  Talking briefly to the group, they said that things have become especially difficult with the influx of the Chinese.

Who knew?

I gave them my condolences and went to my room to nap before dark.

The Chinese were smoking and talking loudly as I passed them.

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A Night Out

When I had been in Vientiane over forty years ago they were just finishing the Patuxai, or Victory Gate.  It is also called Patuxai Arch or the Arc de Triomphe of Vientiane, as it resembles the Arch de Triomphe  in Paris. The last time I saw it it was still a molded-mishmash of finished cement. They were still attaching all of the sculpture in bas-relief.

Seeing it finished raised its beauty. But even more beautiful were the hundreds of mud-swallows building their nests. Then, several huge honeycombs scalloping the edges. Nature running rampant in the night air.

Then, looking through the arches, what was that on the far side of the fountain?

I walked over to see the new monument that flashed and shifted with LED colors. There were four elephants, one at each corner of the tower above them. I moved closer to see how this was made.

I couldn’t believe my eyes.

The entire structure was made from china dinnerware….

Plates, cups, saucers, bowls, tea cups, tea pots. Even more astonishing was that it was all tied together with string.

I had to ask around, to find out where this came from – and why. Everyone said it was a gift from the Chinese to support the Laotian government. One guy said it was really pretty, but also disturbing on a political level.

SO

Is this what China wants to do?

Tie Laos up all pretty, like a stack of cheap dishes.

Then sell her to the cheapest buyer?

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I walked around the city.

After returning to the hotel I sent a photo of the elephant dish monument to S—, the fired desk clerk, to hear his take on it.

It was midnight.

We texted and texted.

 

 

A Midnight Text

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So, looking at this and I asked someone what it’s for. They told me it was built by the Chinese to support Laos! And I thought about Lao people, like you, losing their work now owned by the Chinese.

Because they teach like that. Because teacher was lie. So student believes that.

The rich always teach lies to advantage the poor.

Yes. True. I never believe my teacher when I have a class.

Awesome. Sometimes one has to be careful though.

Yes.

My question is – who gets all the dishes?? Lol.

Government. Sorry, I don’t understand.

Lol = Laugh out Loud

Where are you now?

Back at the hotel. Only Chinese people at the desk!!!

Yes. How do you feel over there?

I feel sad that I didn’t know about legal issues here. Ownership, property rights.

And who is this? I saw him when I was walking around.

This is a King of Laos, before, when Laos is a kingdom. He died about 200 years ago. Jao Anouvong. [see beginning of post] But this is great by the communist government – to lie to the Lao people.

Ahh. Talked to some kids there but they didn’t know who this was.

Yes. But statue is real. They make it like communist leaders – for acting.

I know so little about Lao history. In Champasak there are two beautiful houses that belonged to the King’s father and brother. Before they were killed by the Pathet Lao.

Yes. In Luang Prabang too.

They are the last King and Queen of Laos.

I love history but much of it is tragic and sad.

Where are you stay at? When you were my age.

I was in the US but came to Thailand for the first time in 1970, when I was 19. A baby!!

Wow. Are you a soldier before?

No…never. Always hated the military.

Haaaa Why?

My parents were religious and sent me to Thailand to teach English, religion. After being in Thailand I loved Buddhism! Lol. Military…always hated the killing and suffering. Stupid shit.

Yes me too. Do you know how can the Pathet clear Lao peoples brain? And believe them.

I look at all countries and religions as stories that men make up. There is nothing real about them. I like objective reality. You will have to look that up! Do you mean how can your government help the Lao people?

No. I mean how Lao’s government lies Lao people. Why do people believe them?

All governments lie and people believe them. It’s a simple source of basic group power. Without a government people fear other groups more.

Oh.

And we should fear the Chinese!!

Young people in Laos most popular dream is to be officers. While they study when they finish they don’t have jobs. There are many people working with government, they don’t have salaries and still work 4-5 years.

Ya, probably because in your country it’s a source of money and power. Wait, what? They do government work with no pay?

Some people have to buy and hire for a job with the government.

Way beyond me! Still will never understand communist theory in politics.

Me too.

And. Now I must go to sleep…but love talking about this shit.

 

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When I left my room the next morning to catch my bus and cross over to Thailand, I sat down for the less than average breakfast. I was served by an elderly, pert Chinese woman in high heels who was telling the other four workers in the lobby what to do. Not a word of Laotian was spoken. I tried speaking Thai at the front desk. No one understood me. I asked if they spoke English.

No.

There were no Thank You’s. Handshakes, no. Wai’s, no. Smiles, no.

The cultural clarity of an entire country was absent.

It was replaced by a place I have no affinity for.

And my Chinese sucks.

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