Sunday * May 5
Everyone said that Sunday would be of great public importance. Even Google Maps showed the roads that the coronation party would march down. They had shut down over forty public roads. Walking out that morning brought about a peacefulness that I have never seen in bustling Bangkok. Owners closed all the shops.
The din of modern day vehicles and their deafening rattles were silenced.
Yellow Means You Were Born on Monday – the color of the new King
Monday is Yellow
For the historic occasion people decked out in yellow shirts. Walking and chatting brought human sounds and personal recognition into play. As I went over the arched canal bridge that takes you to Phra Sumen Road, there were growing hoards of people grouping together to jam through the security tents before reaching Wat Bowonniwet Wihan.
At the top of the arched canal bridge you could see hundreds of citizens jamming the intersection to the left, so I decided to cross the road. Stanchioned off over there was an area backed up by the police.
I passed the crowd and went to the other side.
One of the cops standing at the fence stopped me, so I asked him if I could go down to the wat to look around. Surprisingly he said yes! He pulled the stanchions apart and let me through. I passed the security tents on the other side of the street with the hundreds of people waiting to enter there.
To the temple the road was wide opened. As I approached the the temple the stage, set out at the entrance for the king, was still there.
Lotus Buds Are the Human Condition
Next to the road altars were set up by different groups. They all represented public honor to Buddha and the King. In true Thai fashion they were elegant in style. Hundreds of hours of work had been applied to create their beauty. Where I ended up while waiting for the procession was built by the Royal School.
When one first sees these altar decorations you think they are plastic. When you look closer you realize that these are all made out of thousands of real flower buds. Each bud is independently attached and then lined-up in swirling rows.
Each one represents a lotus bud in bloom. The lotus represents individual action throughout life. You are born from a seed in the dirt and mud of the earth. As you grow you gain more knowledgable understanding. You branch out into different aspects – some good, some bad.
Ultimately, a lotus bud surfaces above the water and produces the most beautiful flower. Its growth is a perfect analogy of the human condition. A symbol of purity, enlightenment, self-regeneration and rebirth.
Every Thai child knows this.
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Temple Worlds
First of all, before settling on the main road to await the king, I went into the temple compound to see what was going on.
Doors entering into the main temple area were guarded. So I walked around the housing section, the school and the employee areas. People were busy! In one section they were assembling dozens of the lotus buds mentioned above. Piles of flower buds were strewn about. People were sitting on the floors checking their perfection.
Suddenly from the flower room, young men carried out beautiful, very old potted bonsai trees. They loaded them on a cart and I later saw them wheeling them to the main temple.
Food vendor carts bordered the outside area. Everyone was making and serving their specialties. There was even an Italian espresso machine. Anyone could take anything they wanted for free.
Suddenly I was surrounded by the kings guard while walking along one of the walkways. They passed, then hurried into another walkway and assembled in order. Then they began to practice a march and rifle salute. While shooting photos someone came up to me. Photos were not allowed. I stopped and walked on.
Then a bigger surprise.
Multiple Men or One Woman
Walking toward me was a group of young men in white tux-fashion. Following them was the queen of the entourage, a ladyboy. She looked at me as they passed, stopped, turned around and started digging into her Chanel bag. I could tell she was trying to rivet my attention.
It worked. I walked up to her and asked if I could take her picture.
Without saying a word she plunked her Chanel bag down, went and stood facing away from me, then turned around in a pose. She told the young men in tuxedos to keep walking. She’d catch up to them.
Sometimes the world turns into an alternate reality; one one hopes for but has never seen.
She was one of those alternate realities.
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Rule Breaker
During my roundabout in the temple area a soldier finally came up to me. He asked why I was there. When I told him that I was just looking at the activities before the arrival of the King he told me I needed to exit the area.
I went out one of the gates onto Phra Sumen Road which was already getting jammed with people. Before I had any more issues with security I walked down to the security tent to get one of the stickers for the day.
Jamming far ahead in the crowd was a Herculean task. It was nearly an hour before I arrived at the metal passthrough. They photographed me with my passport on my phone and buzzed me down with a small metal detector. Then I had to go to immigration authority. Immigration typed in my number and found my visa on line. Everything was good so they took another photo, gave me a numbered sticker and let me go.
Thai Savoir Faire
In typical Thai savoir faire function, I ended up walking down the same road that I had walked up an hour earlier. Now I had a sticker. The sidewalks were getting packed with people sitting on them in umbrellaed shade.
While I was trying to spot a place to stay, palace guards started to form in front of the staging area. I was shooting photos and an FBI looking guy came rushing over and told me to stop. I did and walked on.
The palace guard with their adorable hats
New Friends
A little further down the road but still outside the temple wall a man walked up to me. In broken English he was trying to ask what I needed. I flipped into Thai. When I told him I was looking for a place to stay for the coronation he said,
‘Come with me.’
He took me over near one of the temple entrances. Telling everyone there that we needed space, he managed to connive our way in right by the wall entrance – in the shade. I stood there starring at everyone else in the hot tropical sun. The shade was still hot, but bearable.
My new group of friends
Soon after we entered into our space some guards came by telling everyone that we should sit down on the ground in anticipation of the kings arrival. It was two in the afternoon. The king was scheduled for four. And that was just his entrance to the temple.
Everyone sat down.
Watching Thai’s deal with things is usually an element of grace. As a foreigner, sitting on a sun drenched cement sidewalk for five hours breaks all of the rules that we enter into as Western children. I sat down with everyone else, my legs crossed with ankles on the hard cement. Fortunately, I had the wall at my back. But for the other thousands they all sat in the meditative fashion that they had undertaken since childhood. I always try to enter into that You Can Do This phase – but easily slide into the why?
Why?
Travel?
Risk Stability?
Chance Danger?
Jeopardize the Future?
Menace Broken Hearts?
Wait for a King?
Write This?
Flee Friends?
Endanger Your Brain?
Take on the World?
The King Cometh – That’s Why
Royalty.
I know that it is a silly, made up story. It is much like religions, politics or nation states; all things that we follow, group too, in order to establish our place in the world. All stories.
Our individual essence rests on such things.
Things like horses….
….Prime Ministers….
….Soldiers and Guns….
…. even tiered umbrellas.
My individual essence felt like it was falling apart.
I had been sitting on the sidewalk with everyone else for over five hours before the king came to the temple. He was there listening to Pali chants given by the monks. Then he exited and was carried down Phra Sumen Road on a palanquin. He wore the same hat his father wore at his coronation in 1950.
King Bhumibol Adulyadej – 1950
It was seven at night. It was dark. My photos are lousy. My video didn’t take.
The King came and went.
So did I.
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A more elegant take near the Kings Palace
Were you also wearing yellow, Gary?
Are people stunned when you speak to them in near-perfect Thai?
Great photos! –as always!
Was wearing yellow pants!
That may have been a faux pas but no one, in true Thai style, would ever let you know.
Thais are always happy to hear you speak Thai. Those years of missionary tactics have finally paid off.
The one comment I hear when I start speaking Thai is ‘You speak so clearly!’
Surprised that it had nothing to do with religion…
Gary—I just binge-read all your posts and drooled over the photos. I love your writing style and insights.
Hi Jane,
Thank you so much for reading along.
I have never done anything like this so it’s good to get some feedback.
If you drool too much, wash the pillowcase.
Gary ! You are amazing, your words and travels – I am so happy you are sharing the details! XO
And I’m happy you are reading!
You are very funny. You make me feel like I am waiting uncomfortably with you. I even love your blurried hurried photo when he did pass by. Very funny. For someone who makes a habit of questioning authority, you went half way around the world to see the king crowned. And so many other reasons.
Thanks Mary.
It’s pretty funny to look at it now, that blurry photo of the king. I was so exhausted by the time that happened that I was lucky to get even that.
It has been really interesting to to talk to Thais about the new king. They will always tell you how much they loved his father but will never be critical of current events. They are still trying to figure out the election results. That will have a great sway in how people, especially young people, reach a consensus.
Me, question authority?